Moonlit Harvest: Preserving Tradition and Flavor in Portugal's Vineyards

Under the moonlit skies and guided by headlamps, workers delicately harvest grape clusters while much of Portugal slumbers.

In the Alentejo region, known as the "Tuscany of Portugal" for its picturesque vineyards, olive groves, and cork-supplying forests, this practice honors tradition while adapting to climate change. The night harvest, a longstanding viticultural method, helps preserve grape freshness, protecting them from the adverse effects of heat, sunlight, and oxidation. As summers grow longer and more unpredictable due to climate change, this practice is increasingly adopted.

Bárbara Monteiro, co-owner of Herdade Da Fonte Santa vineyard, initially faced challenges persuading harvesters to work from midnight to 8 a.m., a change introduced in 2019. Over time, workers have come to prefer this schedule, enabling them to complete multiple shifts while avoiding peak daytime temperatures. In the Alentejo region, temperatures often hit 40°C (104°F) in August, while nighttime brings a cooling respite.

The wine harvests in Spain, Italy, and Portugal, generally occurring from late August to October, vary based on region, grape type, and weather conditions. Many vineyards in these countries have embraced night harvesting for years as a means to enhance wine quality, highlighted by improved flavors and complexity. The change is partly driven by warmer temperatures causing premature sugar development and potential flavor loss, with night-time harvesting locking in better taste profiles.

Foreman Vitor Lucas, despite some warm August nights, appreciates the gentler temperatures at night. Workers pause around 3 a.m. for a traditional meal, then continue for several hours before daybreak. Their efforts reflect an adaptation to climate influences while maintaining viticulture heritage, culminating in a joyous and productive close to the season by October.

(With inputs from agencies.)